But first, let’s backtrack.

Dr. Molina’s story

Dr. Molina studied medicine at the well-respected Universidad Michoacana de Nicolás, Facultad de Medicina, and graduated in 2015. She did her internship at General Hospital in Zihuatanejo. Eventually, Molina landed a job with the government, which not only paid her bills but also gave her some financial freedom. It was during this time that she met Dr. Roderick Hernandez, who had opened Clinica El Limón along with several others. Molina decided to donate some of her time and expertise to helping those in need, while also using the clinic to treat her own patients. Dr. Serralde, with whom Molina had previously worked, had come to Zihuatanejo as a tourist years ago and fallen in love with the area. Serralde now practises at the clinic once a month and is a world-renowned phlebologist, lymphologist, venous ultrasonographer and podiatric surgeon.   

At first, Molina worked at Clinica El Limón on a part-time basis, but it soon became apparent that the clinic was struggling financially, seeing only about 20 clients a month. Still, the sight that greeted Molina that fateful morning, less than a year later, shocked her to the core. 

Some staff members fled, while others resigned to pursue more lucrative employment opportunities. Yet, the community’s resilience shone through as they rallied around the clinic, determined to keep it afloat. 

A commitment to care

Unwilling to “pack it in,” Molina, with the blessing of founder Dr. Roderick Hernandez and Dr. Serralde, decided to quit her government job and devote her full attention to keeping the clinic operating as the clinic coordinator. Luckily, Dr. Serralde, upon learning of what might have been a robbery, came to the rescue, bringing, among other things, monitors, beds, medicine and other essential supplies. He paid the nurses and cleaning staff, but Molina herself does not take a salary.

With limited experience running a business, Molina reached out to a couple of Canadian friends: Larry Wright, a philanthropist in the area, well known for his work raising funds and awareness for a school located at the garbage dump, and Ray Lenovitch, for advice. The pair suggested a GoFundMe page, and they raised 150,000 pesos, while Lenovitch held a private fundraiser in his home. It was enough to pay off most of the bills and debts and keep the lights on, but barely.

Surmounting challenges big and small

However, money wasn’t the only problem the fledgling organization faced. Many years of neglect and mismanagement had resulted in a major strike against them with the Federal Commission for Protection Against Sanitary Risk (Cofepris). This organization governs all the hospitals and clinics in Mexico. Threatened with closure, Molina and Semalde faced the task of making the necessary changes to bring the clinic up to code. Among the grievances was the clinic’s lack of an agreement with a biological waste collector. There were also many maintenance issues, including cleanliness problems, such as mould on the floors of the surgical floor, and numerous other problems crucial to their future.  

Dr. Molina rolled up her sleeves and got to work, along with five nurses, a cleaning lady and a kind neighbour. They scrubbed the clinic from top to bottom, eliminating mold in the surgical department by removing the tiles. Then the team painted and repaired until everything was spotless and functional once more, essentially restructuring the entire clinic from top to bottom. 

How the clinic survives

The result was that, except for a couple of minor issues still to be addressed, the clinic is legally up to code and in accordance with medical standards. They ran the clinic for another month, but as patient numbers dwindled, Molina faced the difficult decision to reduce the staff to just herself and one student nurse. Despite the financial restraints, Molina is determined to keep the clinic open to help those in need.

“We have many locals who can’t afford medical care. Even though our fee is on par with everyone else at 500 pesos, some can’t even pay that.  Some clients have zero money and could only pay with produce, or a few coins —whatever they could afford. We had one client pay with candy. We will treat them anyway.”

However, Molina now has hope for the future, as the “high season” is soon upon them, and people will be returning to Mexico to escape the cold winters. This influx of patients brings a renewed sense of hope and purpose to the clinic.

 “We have many English-speaking clients, mostly expats who appreciate that I speak English,” she said. “And lots of word-of-mouth.” 

Patients are impressed 

Indeed, patients are effusive in their praise. Richard Black, for example, an expatriate from the United States, had this to say of his experience with Dr. Molina. “Dr Molina is the best! She is very professional, knowledgeable, courteous, efficient, friendly, and her bilingual language skills are much appreciated,” said Black. “Always taking time to explain things about my health issues in a way that I can comprehend! She is helpful far beyond my previous experience with doctors! She is wise beyond her years, and I am lucky and happy to know her.”

Dolores Crowton from Detroit, Michigan, was also laudatory. “Yes, she (Molina) is so wonderful. Being alone in Mexico and elderly … She was like a beacon of light! Never had a doctor so caring.”

Sylvia Otero from Zihuatanejo added, “Dr. Molina has given us excellent medical care. My mother has suffered for many years with varicose ulcers, but Dr. Molina was able to heal her in a very short time. In my case, Dr Molina detected a brain tumor, and thanks to her, I was operated on and now I am completely well. Dr. Molina is a human being who is always willing to help her patients. We are older people, so when necessary, she comes to our home.”

A plan for the future

Dr. Molina told me her commitment to quality care is unwavering. “I assure patients that the clinic’s focus is on providing accurate diagnoses, avoiding unnecessary consultations and prescribing effective medications. The clinic’s independence from any specific pharmacy ensures that its recommended health plans can be trusted.” She added,  “We prioritize solving the root of the problem, not just prescribing medication, and we bring in specialists as needed, ensuring comprehensive and effective care.”

As to what the future holds, Molina said, “To become self-sufficient as we treat the people of Ixtapa-Zihuatanejo. For me, the clinic is a labour of love. We are gaining an excellent reputation for quality care and want to continue doing that.” 

“I can get a job anywhere,” she says. “I have bills to pay, too and right now I could make more money selling tacos on the street. And there is equipment we still need. But I am committed to this clinic.” 

When asked how she plans on ensuring the financial sustainability of the clinic in the long term, she said, “We are making some agreements with insurance companies so that they send us more patients to the clinic. And we plan to do more publicity to get the word out that we are open for business.”

Want to support quality healthcare in Zihuatanejo? Clinica Limón’s GoFundMe campaign remains open for those who’d like to contribute.

The writer divides her time between Canada and Zihuatanejo.

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By chance, Maciel was visiting Coacoyul from his main home in Cuernavaca. I was invited to join Maciel and his family and friends for lunch at a restaurant at the Museo del Coco in Coacoyul.

Years ago, Leonel Maciel, together with his brother Carlos Maciel, who is also a famous Mexican artist, created a breathtaking double-sided mural that dominates the entrance to the compound. It measures 4 meters high by 20 meters wide and tells the story of the coconuts’ importance to the region. This stunning masterpiece alone makes Coacoyul well worth a visit. 

At our first meeting, Maciel quickly put me at ease; he was charming and immediately likable. Although he spoke very little English, his nephew and other guests were there to help me when I got stuck. I even joked that my Spanish was better with mezcal, and soon a bottle appeared in front of me, to much laughter, followed by a toast to new friendships. 

During the meal, I caught a glimpse of who he was — humble, humorous, interesting and dedicated to his work. After enjoying the food and a couple of shots, I excused myself with the promise of another meeting.  

Our second meeting was a couple of weeks later at a popular downtown restaurant in Zihuatanejo, La Sirena Gorda. Armed with extensive research from a retrospective art book about him entitled “Leonel Maciel, El Buscador Impentiente (The Unrepentant Seeker),” I felt better prepared.

The book, filled with beautiful samples of his work, was written in Spanish but also translated into English and Russian. I was captivated by the images that leapt off the page and soon drawn in by the sheer genius of his work.

I learned in this book that Maciel attributes the unique personalities of his parents, María Sánchez Ríos and Justo Maciel Rodríguez, as his inspiration. It was through their gifts — his mother being an avid reader of literature and his father a born storyteller who retold her stories as she relayed them — that Maciel began to paint at a very early age. 

Even as a child, he said, “I painted as an adult.”

However, when I asked Maciel about his parents’ influence, he joked in response. 

“My father was a great storyteller, a liar,” he said. “But our mother encouraged us to read. I painted as I heard the stories from literature. And it is not so much that they influenced me. That’s something someone said. People always think they know you better than they do.” He laughed. “But when I was about 4 or 5, I saw a group of men riding horses, and that made me want to paint.”

Maciel began his formal training at the Esmeralda National School of Art in Mexico City (La Esmeralda, or Escuela Nacional de Pintura, ENPEG). Later, he travelled extensively in Europe and Asia, learning, painting and experiencing different cultures. 

He can rattle off the places he visited.

“I went to Bali, Thailand, Hawaii, Bhutan, Europe, the United States. Bali was my favorite. The people were incredibly warm and kind, and the scenery was beautiful. After that, I did 30 paintings and sold them all.”

When examining Maciel’s work, the constant evolution of his style over various periods in his life is evident. There is his primary orange and red series, and then a completely different style, done in mainly blues and browns. There are also his erotic paintings and sketches — all so different, you wonder if they have come from the same person. 

When I asked him about it, he said, “I paint how I want, when I want, how I feel at the time. I paint free.”

Today, Maciel’s work is exhibited in several art galleries and museums in Mexico, including in the Museo del Palacio de Bellas Artes and the Museo de Arte Moderno, both in Mexico City. He also has works in galleries and museums in Ireland, Nicaragua, and Reykjavik, Iceland.  

When I asked him what was next for him, he replied, “I will paint until I die.”

The writer divides her time between Canada and Zihuatanejo.

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Before I discuss my experience, I should acknowledge that not everyone believes that keeping marine life in captivity is a good thing. Some people think that dolphins belong in the wild and that conservation efforts should take priority over captivity. Indeed, the Mexican Senate recently passed a ban on dolphin shows 99-0, so the future for places like Delfiniti does not look bright.

Reviews I had seen, though, were positive, especially since this particular Dolphinarium had a therapy program for children with disabilities. I knew several parents of these children who had attended the program, and they had provided nothing but positive feedback.

Attending the party was an excellent opportunity to form my own opinion about it, so I accepted the invitation with an open mind.

I arrived at the party to find many children and their parents easily as excited as I was. Veronik, who, it turns out, is now an employee at the Dolphinarium as a greeter and salesperson, was on hand to explain how it all worked and what we could expect over the next couple of hours.

One of the many employees led us to an area down some stairs while another group finished up. A loud squawking from above echoed in the holding area, and we all noticed the beautiful guacamayas and a majestic owl high on the branches above us. One of the workers brought them down from their perches, and those of us who wanted could take a photo holding them alongside the birthday girl. (Of course, I did).

A half-hour later, another employee led us up a walkway to the pools, where three beautiful dolphins jumped and frolicked right before us as everyone there oohed and ahhed at the sight. The pool, I noticed, was sparkling clean.

The trainers introduced us to the dolphins, Chame, Chocho and Nena. They jumped, twirled and leapt out of the water, each time rewarded by a seemingly endless supply of fish from a cooler.

Since there were so many guests, we were divided into two groups and led single file to opposite ends of the pools. We slipped into the water and stood on a wide platform, and then all took turns hugging our dolphin and touching its fins. It felt magical to be so close to such a beloved creature.

Our assigned dolphin, Chame, swam in front of our outstretched hands, and we touched its smooth, soft skin as it went by.  Through it all, a photographer was on hand to capture the experience. Later, after an incredible show of more tricks, we filed back into the waiting room below, where screens showed photos the photographer had captured, and we could purchase pictures of ourselves.

Over the years, I have heard both the pros and cons of marine facilities like this one. Were the dolphins exploited or mistreated at the facility in Ixtapa? It didn’t feel that way to me. Judging by the number of fish they ate throughout their performance, I believed them to be well-fed and cared for. Perhaps it was my imagination or wishful thinking, but I felt the dolphins enjoyed performing as much as the appreciative crowd enjoyed watching them.

There was also a great deal of value educational-wise, judging by the wonder I saw in the eyes of everyone present, especially the children.

Unfortunately — or fortunately, depending on your perspective —  the vote to shut down all marine parks and dolphinariums in Mexico includes those that offer therapeutic classes, leaving a doubtful future for places like this. There will be some exceptions, such as certified scientific research, but my question is, what will they do with all the dolphins?

The writer divides her time between Canada and Zihuatanejo.

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After renting for many years in various parts of both Ixtapa and Zihuatanejo, I decided three years ago to build a home on some property I had purchased years earlier, just 15 minutes south of Zihuatanejo in the small Mexican town of El Coacoyul (population 6,900 people). El Coacoyul, formerly known as Hacienda El Coacoyul, is named after an exotic plant popular in the town. The name is Indigenous and means “navel of the world.” 

El Coacoyul has beautiful murals that appear unexpectedly on hidden streets and walkways. Although a little faded from when various artists first painted them a couple of years ago, they showcase the amazing talent in the area, and I enjoy exploring the side streets in search of them.

The town has experienced rapid growth, thanks in part to the Ixtapa-Zihuatanejo International Airport and to its proximity to the city of Zihuatanejo and surrounding tourist areas. Large acres of coconut groves in the town rapidly made way for the current building sites of today. 

However, El Coacoyul still has a small-town feel, and I appreciate the rural setting and privacy it provides while still being close enough to amenities. When choosing where to live in Mexico, most people feel more comfortable moving to a larger city rather than a small town. For one thing, the social aspect is better, and they are often surrounded by other expats, which can be comforting for some. 

I understand that. At first, the major adjustment I had to make was being unable to step out of my door and walk to my regular Zihuatanejo haunts. The other adjustment was that I knew very few people in El Coacoyul, and at night, especially, it can get a bit lonely without friends nearby.

However, I now enjoy being one of the few foreigners in the community. It forces me to be outgoing and to talk to strangers that I might normally pass by. It’s rewarding when locals stop and say hello. I grew up in a small town in Canada, and knowing everyone was what made it special. 

Being here reminds me of home, and I find a similar sense of acceptance that I appreciate in small communities. And when I need a more social life, I know I can always drive to nearby Zihuatanejo. What has been interesting to me is that the more I become accustomed to peace, quiet and solitude, the more I like it.  

My move did involve other adjustments: At first, I still found myself driving to Zihuatanejo for most of my supplies. However, I have since discovered that anything I need is just a stone’s throw away from where I live. And so, as the song goes, here are just a few of my favorite things and the reason I am so happy in my new home.

Down the street, I buy fresh chicken at a place called Pollería Luz, where the owner, always friendly, sells the best fresh, plump chicken in his small, immaculate shop. If I haven’t been there in a while, he notices my absence and asks if everything is all right with me. Along the same street is the wonderful cake shop that has caught my attention. Since I am not a fan of the more commonly sold tres leches cake, I was thrilled to know they sell authentic chocolate cake.

I am now such a frequent customer that as soon as I pull up on my scooter, they ask, “Chocolate?” 

Heading back to the main road, there is my favourite fruit and vegetable stand. It’s always a relief not to fight traffic like when I’m trying to find that elusive parking spot in downtown Zihuatanejo. Here, Julio sells a wide variety of fresh produce at reasonable prices, and he’ll sometimes toss in an apple or an orange as a bonus, which never fails to put a smile on my face. Hector the locksmith has bailed me out more than once when my locks mysteriously stop working. He not only makes house calls but also speaks English. 

At Carnitas Quirego, my favourite taco stand, I’m conspicuous among the locals, who smile back when I greet them, somewhat surprised I speak Spanish, but it’s a great ice-breaker.  Coacoyul boasts a large sports area, and I often see events held there in the evenings as I’m driving home. I keep promising myself I’ll muster the courage to stop and mingle, but so far, I’ve been too shy to do it. But I can see the opportunities for connecting with others there. 

I also visit the Museo del Coco (The Coconut Museum), which is a short three blocks from the highway heading south on a paved road, for two reasons: One, they have a great restaurant and host fun-filled events and exhibitions regularly. Not only can I buy all things coco in the gift shop, such as mezcal, soap and oil but I also can take in a special exhibit, like the one that just happened to feature snakes, reptiles and insects. The second reason — if you will pardon the blatant self-promotion — is that it is home to The Seahorse Sanctuary & Equine Therapy Centre, a nonprofit organization I founded three years ago that helps kids and adults with disabilities through our horse program. 

It’s not easy to integrate into any community, regardless of the country in which you live. It’s a challenge to make new friends while also embracing a different mindset. For example, people here tend to be generally more relaxed. However, I find that I prefer the slower pace, especially when I drive on the quieter side streets. 

I watch older adults, who have most likely known each other their whole lives, stop and chat on the streets while sweeping the sidewalks clean. Gaggles of children walk to and from school, and although this happens in larger centers too, there is something so “Norman Rockwell” about the sight — a reminder of days gone by. Dogs roam the streets, sometimes lazily sleeping in the middle of the road. Sometimes, I’ve had to honk my horn, but more often than not, I’ve had to go around. It never fails to amuse me. 

I’m calmer living here. I don’t get as triggered by little things as I used to. I find myself more at peace than I have ever been in my entire life. And that’s a good thing.

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Originally named the Bellack Foundation, it is now known as Por Los Niños, an organization with a mission to help underprivileged children through assistance to local schools and scholarships for students. The organization distributes money raised from Sailfest, Zihuatanejo’s popular two-week regatta event and fundraiser, which attracts folks in the sailing community from far and wide each year.

From figure skater to Reno showgirl

Bellack started her life far from Zihuatanejo, from humble beginnings in Beaumont, England, where she began ice skating early. As she grew older, figure skating became her passion, and she eventually taught the sport around the country, including in Leeds, a coal mining town. 

“The coal was so thick that after class, when we removed our clothes to shower, there was an outline of soot stenciled on our bodies. And sometimes the fog was so thick, it was hard to breathe, much less skate,” 

Bellack married and had a son, but by the age of 45, she had married three more times. During this period, she mingled with the musical legends like Mick Jagger, Englebert Humperdinck and even Princess Margaret, whom she met at an awards ceremony. 

She taught skating in Australia for three years before relocating to the United States in 1980. There, Bellack began a new career as a figure-skating showgirl in the Razzle Dazzle ice follies in Reno, Nevada, a large-scale, theatrical ice-skating revue that also featured celebrities.  

Much like in England, the ever-popular Bellack met during this time with some of the most fascinating celebrities of the era, including singer Vicki Carr, Olympic skater Dorothy Hamill, entertainer Sammy Davis, Jr. and actor John Travolta. It was also where she met Richard Bellack, a handsome airline pilot with United Airlines, who eventually became husband number five.  

Together, the Bellacks lived for eight years on a boat in San Diego, where Gloria — who had retired from skating — held several positions at the KKIC Yacht Club at Shelter Island, including that of rear commodore.

A pull toward Mexico and helping others

Throughout these years, the Bellacks felt drawn to Mexico and began to search for places to live during the winter months. Having visited in 1974, Richard felt that Zihuatanejo was high on the list of possibilities, as he preferred it over any other place they had experienced in the country. Together, they decided to explore it further.  

While staying at a hotel in Zihuatanejo, they noticed a large group of children gathered on a basketball court. Curious, they investigated, thinking it a school event. However, it turned out to be a “clean the beach day” event. This encounter became a pivotal moment in their lives.

By chance, they met Lisa Martin, an American who had aligned herself with Marina Sánchez, a teacher and founder of a school dedicated to teaching the city’s poorest Indigenous children. These children’s education was sketchy at best, but Sánchez and Martin dreamed of a school with the same advantages as government-run institutions. 

Since these children spoke Nahuatl, not Spanish — a requirement at that time — the government did not provide support for their education. The duo wanted to change all that. 

The Netza School was little more than a rudimentary shack, dependent on donations from well-meaning locals and tourists. Gloria, who had suffered from dyslexia, only learning to read as an adult, identified with the challenges these children faced.

And so the Bellacks decided to get involved in the project.  

The birth of Zihuatanejo’s Sailfest

Around the same time, the Bellacks began to make friends with the sailing community in Zihuatanejo, made up of people from Canada and the U.S. The couple noticed that each year, these folks brought school supplies for disadvantaged children as they sailed from port to port. A Zihuatanejo hangout, Rick’s Bar, started to accept the donations, and soon a loose association formed. 

More formal fundraising efforts for the Netza school began when Latitude 38, a well-known international sailing magazine, teamed up with a catamaran and hosted the Sail Parade event to raise the much-needed funds. Boaters sold tickets to eager tourists on their boats.

The event was a success, raising over US $2,000 in its first year. From this, Zihuatanejo’s popular Sailfest fundraising event was born.

Each year thereafter, Sailfest expanded to include more events, including chilli contests, dances and cruises, and became a highly anticipated event. 

“It was such a success that people began to plan their holidays around it,” Bellack said.  

The formation of Por Los Niños

The Bellacks eventually formed a foundation, enlisting the help of another expat, Bill Underwood, who, like the Bellacks, committed to matching donations during the first eight to 10 years of fundraising. With these extra funds, they expanded their donations to include many other schools.

Despite the more recent yearly decline of participating boaters in Sailfest — from a peak of 100 boats to only 10–12 participants in 2025, there is no question that Sailfest is still a significant success. 

“The decrease in boats is due in part to the creation of a Sailfest in Barrio Navidad a few years ago, which caused many boaters who would normally make the annual trek to Zihuatanejo to anchor there instead,” Bellack explains. 

Some people also blame the economy, while others blame the lingering effects of the COVID-19 pandemic for the boats’ dwindling numbers. However, the annual fundraiser is still a success: In 2024, it raised over 4.7 million pesos (US $205,000). 

The organization keeps responding to the changing needs of underserved Zihuatanejo schoolchildren. This video tells the story of how Por Los Niños responded to the COVID-19 pandemic closing schools.

Over the years, this money has built countless classrooms, kitchens and bathrooms in Zihuatanejo and several surrounding communities. The organization has provided uniforms, lunch meals, books, school supplies and computers. It has also given out scholarships to hundreds of children.

Last year, their scholarship recipients had a 100% graduation rate. A large percentage of the organization’s scholarship students have also gone on to pursue higher education. 

Today, although retired from the day-to-day management of events, Gloria, 81, and Richard, 86, remain actively involved in Por Los Niños. They attend all events, and annually, Gloria hosts a much-anticipated fundraiser, called High Tea with Gloria, in the couple’s home. In a nod to England, guests are encouraged to wear elaborate hats and fancy clothes while sipping tea (and other beverages of a stronger nature) and nibbling on cucumber sandwiches and pastries 

When asked what her involvement in Sailfest has meant to her, Gloria said,  “It’s given me a lot of faith, excitement and inspiration. And, it makes me happy. “

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We decided to explore some on a recent trip to the state capital of Morelia. Our tour guide, Rueben Reyes, took us to several places in our quest to find treasures for my home in Zihuatanejo. Among those places were the village of Cuanajo, which specializes in beautiful hand-carved, hand-painted furniture — from rustic pine designs to the more elaborate and expensive ones made from parota wood. We also visited Capula, just a short drive away, which specializes in Catrinas of all sizes.

One standout for me was Santa Clara del Cobre, best known as the town of coppersmiths. 

A designated Magical Town (Pueblo Mágico) since 2010, Santa Clara del Cobre is located 18 kilometers from Pátzcuaro and 79 kilometers from Morelia, the state capital.

The Purépecha people have been working copper here since the pre-Hispanic era, which led to the town’s dominance in copper crafts well into the 19th century. After nearly dying out by the mid-20th century, the art has been revived by tourism, and today, 82% of the town’s population makes copper items, and over 250 registered workshops in and around the city process 450 tons of copper each year. 

Each year, at the end of July, the town holds an artisan fair showcasing the many artists and studios, the National Copper Fair, also choosing a queen to preside over the festivities.

The book “Grandes Maestros del Arte Popular Mexicano” featured copper artist Jesús Pérez Ornelas, considered one of the most outstanding craftsmen of his time. Pérez, who passed away nearly 10 years ago,  was most famous for his intricate engraving, the beauty of his designs and the quality of his finishings.  

He worked well into his 70s in Mexico and abroad and was dedicated to his craft and to teaching others in Santa Clara del Cobre. Like his father before him, Pérez, also a gifted storyteller, passed his enormous skill onto his three sons, Ambrosio, Jose Sagrario and Napoleón Pérez Pamatz. 

I was fortunate to visit the well-ventilated, open-roofed shop where the magic happens, located adjacent to the family home, typical of most local coppersmiths here. I spoke to Jesús’ youngest son, Napoleón, who explained the fascinating steps in making this truly intricate art.

“We learned how to make copper at our father’s knee from the time we were six, seven  years old,” he said. “Our first job was to fan the fires using huge billows called bechizo. The boy who maintains the fire is known as a zorillo, or ‘little fox.’ Almost all coppersmiths begin the trade this way.”  

He pointed to the tools that surrounded him. They included anvils, picks of various sizes, awls, chisels, hammers and pliers. “Then we learn to use these.”

To demonstrate, Napoleón heated a piece of metal until the copper was red-hot and removed it from the coals and ash with large tongs. Then, with a hammer and precise, even blows, he struck the copper until it began to take shape. Occasionally, he reheated the piece and continued to hammer it into a small bowl. 

“Next, we will polish the piece,” he said. 

Napoleón demonstrated this by rubbing a cloth onto the copper.

“And then we etch in intricate designs, like flowers, animals or anything the client wants. My family is known for these designs made famous by my father,” he said. “The final step is a sulfuric acid bath rubbed with steel wool dipped in soap and water, followed by another polishing.”

Seeing the passion the family poured into every piece, and the generational history of the family itself, I was hopeful I would find something to take home with me. However, unlike the shops that line downtown Santa Clara — which is well worth the stroll — there were more pieces in various stages of design than there were finished works. 

I then spotted a stunningly beautiful copper bowl on a workbench set to one side. When I learned it was for sale (4,000 pesos), I promptly bought it. It was one of Napoleón’s.

While I waited, he signed it for me, and it now sits proudly on a credenza in my living room, where I will treasure it for years to come.

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It all began when the late Captain Tony Piazza and his wife Claire came to Zihuatanejo at the urgings of Apple Vacations, with whom they had a business arrangement to sail charters in Cancun from 1985. The tour company assured them that this part of Mexico was the place to be, given its location, beautiful waters and little competition. But it wasn’t all smooth sailing.

Despite the setbacks, the Piazzas persevered. Their first boat in Zihuatanejo was The Tristar, and they partnered with three others. The cockpit caught on fire, setting them back until Piazza, a shipbuilder, rebuilt it a few weeks later. In 2001, they made an agreement with the owners of another boat, the Vitava, an 85-foot wooden schooner until 2004. After doing maintenance in Mazatlan, they realized it was taking on water. Since it needed further repairs, the owner returned it to the shipyard, and the Piazzas searched for another boat to continue.

Their last purchase was The Picante, which Piazza and three partners bought in the Caribbean in 2004, sailing through the Panama Canal to Zihuatanejo, where it sits today.

With the passing of Tony Piazza in April 2023, Claire was in the unenviable position of deciding whether to continue with the business. Luckily for the thousands of tourists and locals alike, she decided to keep going and, with a great team beside her, has been running it ever since.

Our sunset cruise started at 5 p.m., when we met on the pier across the bay from the main beach where the boat docks. You can see it nearly everywhere on Playa Municipal, the main beach in downtown Zihuatanejo.

It was a lively crowd that day, with a mixture of foreigners and Mexican tourists. One young woman was celebrating her birthday with a fairly large group of friends, and there were a couple of local families I recognized as well. Our captain, Carlos Ríos, welcomed everyone on board, and as we puttered out from shore, he went over the customary safety guidelines. I chose to sit on the comfortable net where I could be on the lookout for sea life.

As we left the bay, Rios pointed out Bara de Potosi and the white Islands of Potosi — white because of bird poop — and spoke about the bird-watching sanctuary located there and began an interesting narrative starting from the rim of the bay at the Faro Viaje, one of two lighthouses we would see. As the high investment in Punta Garrobo’s development came into view, he mentioned the infamous Kau Kan Restaurant, which had moved there from Ixtapa a few years ago.

The Picante headed west now towards Ixtapa, passing by a beautiful beach known as Playa Majahua and the Caves of the Majahua. Luckily, the sea was calm this evening, and we could slow the engines, sit back, and admire the cliffs. “Otherwise,” Rios said, “It’s too risky and we could get sucked into the rocks.”

From there, we crossed in front of Playa Palmar, which has numerous rows of hotels, including The Fontan, Sunscape, and Barcelo, and residential complexes like the BVG, which have stood for many years.  Just past that was the Ixtapa Marina, a 480-slip marina, the largest in Mexico and home to the yacht of billionaire Carlos Slim, Mexico’s richest man.

The sun began a slow but spectacular descent to the music of Andres Botticelli’s “Perfect Symphony.” As the rays dipped below the horizon, to appreciative cheers from everyone aboard, the energetic and very entertaining staff sprang into action, offering a meal service consisting of a light dinner of chicken, vegetables and rice, included in the price, along with an open bar serving a variety of drinks, including local tequila and cocktails.

The Picante quickly turned inside the Bay of Ixtapa and headed straight to the islands. It was a bird watcher’s delight. Various species of seagulls, pelicans, Boobies, and Cormorants swooped in and around Torrecillas Island and where we were able to witness the phenomenon of one of two blow holes in Mexico (a blow hole, I learned, is formed as sea caves grow landward and upward into a vertical shaft, which can result in hydraulic compression of seawater that then releases through a port from the top of the blowhole).

With food service out of the way, the ever-changing music changed to upbeat Latin pop and requisite tequila bottles. With the help of the fun-loving crew, the sombreros and serapes appeared, and soon, the crew was pouring tequila straight from the bottle into the open mouths of willing participants and encouraged by onlookers to chant, “drink, drink drink!” The music, the costumes donned by the staff and the tequila all added to the festive atmosphere of the cruise.  

“We want to make sure you have a great time on The Picante, “said Rios. “So, after the sunset we create the fiesta. If you have a birthday or an anniversary, we want to make sure it is a special experience for you.”

In addition to the breathtaking sunset tours, The Picante also offers snorkelling and whale-watching tours. For added excitement, you can try their Spinnaker Flying Adventure, a unique experience where you get into a harness connected to an A-line. The wind catches it, and the spinnaker fills up with wind and pulls you up about 25 to 30 feet high.  When you want to come down, you shimmy to the end of the line to a waiting crew in the water below. It’s an adventure that’s sure to get your heart racing!

The Picante offers several other options of interest. With the advantage of size, the Picante, is perfect for private charters for weddings, engagements or corporate events.

“It has been used by the city of Zihuatanejo for promotional events and even rented by people spreading the ashes of loved ones.” said Piazza. “We participate in two of the city’s known charity events as well, the annual Sailfest and Guitarfest held annually in Zihuatanejo in the months of February and March respectively.”

Information on the sunset cruise, as well as everything else they offer, can be found on their website.

The writer divides her time between Canada and Zihuatanejo. 

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On the Pacific coast, December through the end of March are the prime months for catching sight of one of the largest mammals in the world, which come to the region’s lagoons to birth their calves. If you’re very lucky, you may even witness a live birth on an excursion. 

On the coast of Ixtapa-Zihuatanejo, Guerrero, where I live, the most commonly sighted whale is the humpback whale. Eager to experience the adventure, I searched for a reputable company to guide me. 

There are many options for whale-watching tours in and around this coastal town, including those in Barra De Potosi, 30 minutes away. A total of 60 certified whale operators in the area belong to an organization called Whales Of Guerrero. These operators are highly trained and knowledgeable in the whale-watching tour industry. Unfortunately, many independent tours often lack the correct permits or training to join this important organization. They are usually referred to as “pirates” by those who are. I urge everyone to do their homework when choosing a whale-watching tour; if in doubt, check out the Whales of Guerrero website to obtain a list of certified guides that comply with the strict laws of conduct required when whale-watching.

Armed with this knowledge, I ultimately selected a tour with The Zihuatanejo Dive Center, located across from the pier in downtown Zihuatanejo. The centre is owned and operated by Luis Manuel Pelayo, affectionately known as Poto, a Mexican, and his wife Julieta Trzaska, originally from Poland. The couple has been hosting whale tours on their dive boat, The Red Beanie, for seven years and has garnered an excellent reputation for safety, comfort and all-out fun. They are also a part of Whales Of Guerrero. You can choose morning or afternoon tours for 1,200 pesos, roughly US $58, with an hour or two of snorkelling. I opted for the morning tour, and at 9 am, we set out from the pier on Playa Municipal in downtown Zihuatanejo.

Along for the ride was volunteer Jennifer Wilson-Salazar, owner of Kaleidoscope Tours and Canadian native who married a local three years ago in what I can only describe as romantic fate. Salazar and Poto imparted tidbits of interesting whale facts as we glided smoothly across the ocean, which I found fascinating, given that I knew next to nothing about these magnificent creatures.

For instance, I learned that female whales mate with several whales simultaneously, one right after the other, but the last whale impregnates her. Interestingly, that whale is often the smallest. I also learned that whales weigh five tons at birth and can grow up to 40 tons and live from 80 to 90 years. Humpback whales travel great distances from Alaska and Canada to Ixtapa-Zihuatanejo to birth their young. However, they can venture as far south as Oaxaca. “They do this for two reasons. We have warmer waters, which they love,” Wilson-Salazar told me, “and two, because their main enemy, the killer whale, does not follow them to this region, preferring colder waters.”

The waters were extremely calm on the morning we set out, which Poto told us was ideal for whale watching. As we smoothly crossed the ocean, we glimpsed luxurious villas and homes perched on rocky hillsides to the right and left of us. We passed notable beaches La Ropa and Madera, well known for their excellent swimming and extensive choice of restaurants, and Las Gatas, a seafood lover delight and popular reefs that boasts excellent snorkelling off its shores.

Our guides informed us we would be going towards Barra De Potosi, the small village south of us, which he said was the area where we would more likely catch sight of whales, although rare sightings can also occur inside Zihua Bay itself. In addition to Zihuatanejo, this area is also known for tours operated by other members of Whales of Guerero, who are highly trained and certified in the do’s and don’ts of whale watching.

Poto explained some of the specific rules they must adhere to when they go whale watching,  including keeping a safe distance from the whales. Other regulations are that a maximum of four boats can be present when a whale is spotted in the vicinity while others remain in a queue a respectful distance away. Then, after 20 minutes, the boats must depart to allow others to take their turn. “We cannot surround them, and we always approach from the back, not the front. Our boats have to be in neutral gear, and we cannot speed. Most importantly, we must not separate the mother from their offspring. Lastly, we cannot snorkel with the whales, as is permitted in northern parts of Mexico.” 

Finally, the eagle eyes of our boat captain, Chava, spotted boats in the distance and a distinct spray in the air, and we headed in that direction. When we were in place, a safe distance from the other tour boats, Chava idled the engine while Poto lowered a waterproof microphone into the water. Immediately, the air filled with hauntingly beautiful whale songs. Enthralled, we watched the backs of a mother whale and her offspring appear several times before diving out of sight. Unfortunately, Poto said they might stay submerged for ten to 40 minutes. 

After 20 minutes, we reclaimed the microphone and set off again. We did this several times over an hour, catching glimpses but never seeing whales breaching as we had hoped for. No shade to the operators, of course, as sometimes this can happen, so you must be prepared for it or choose to go out another time. I still found it thrilling to be in such close vicinity to the whales, listening to their songs from above their watery depths.

Afterwards, as part of the tour, we headed to Manzanillo Reef, around the bend from the bay of Zihuatanejo, for an hour of snorkelling. It was a delightful end to a beautiful morning, swimming in pristine clear waters among many species of tropical fish and marine life before heading home, tired but content. 

The writer divides her time between Canada and Zihuatanejo.

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The success of his first venture started a lifelong career as Plumail opened his 2nd restaurant, which he operated for 3 years in Sait-Paul-de-Vence, France and where he earned his 2nd Michelin Star. Following this success, Plumail opened his 3rd restaurant in Nice and ran it for 25 years, earning yet another Michelin Star. However, the accolades did not end when Plumail also scooped the prestigious Pastry award in 1978.  

Plumail’s star rose quickly from the opening of his first venture, gaining an exclusive A-lister clientele such as Duran Duran, Sir Elton John and King Frederik of Denmark, as well as many wealthy clients worldwide. While at his 3rd restaurant, he caught the eye of none other than the Prince Of Monaco. Impressed with his skills, the Royal Prince enticed him to be the chef at Monaco’s prestigious yacht club. At first, Plumail was reluctant — after all, he had a business and school to run. He only agreed when promised it would be only for 3 days, so he accepted the offer. Little did he know that those 3 days would become a week, which quickly became 5 years.  

After years of struggle and humble beginnings, Plumail says, “Working there was like another world. Unlimited money when before money was always limited. It was a dream job.”

Plumail sold his restaurant and began traveling and cooking all over the world, often for VIPs and celebrities. But he never lost his love for teaching. “Some of my students have become very successful,” he said with pride, “It makes me feel good.”

During one of these assignments in 1984, he ended up in Oaxaca, Mexico and was the first person to teach cooking classes for Alliance Française, a global network of schools promoting the French language through cultural and educational activities. In exchange, the school gave him and his wife, Betty, a one-week free holiday to Zihuatanejo. 

 

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Plumail and his wife were instantly captivated by the allure of Zihuatanejo. Their love for the area was so profound that they decided to make it their permanent home, moving there full-time three years ago. 

But, says Plumail, “I knew I could not just sit here and do nothing — I had to do something.”

That something was the purchase of a small 9-room boutique hotel in July of this year, high on the road to La Ropa beach, called Enseno de Fuga. From the outside, it looked deceivingly small, with a low wooden door which led inside. Once you step over the threshold, you will be greeted with a breathtaking view of Zihuatanejo Bay and the sheer spaciousness of the interior. 

This continued throughout the entire property, from the foyer to the dining area and pool below.  Each of the nine rooms boasting the same spectacular views was individually decorated and named with their door plaques, like La Sirena, La Ropa, and Neptuno. In addition, you can rent the whole villa, which includes a sitting area and kitchen facilities so you can cook for yourselves or enjoy the luxury of Plumail as your private chef.  

 

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Plans for the hotel, which Plumail says should be operational in about a month, include hosting special events for up to 20 people at a time, which Plumail and his wife will cater. “These would be special and with fine attention to every detail. For me, a customer is a friend, and spending a special, personal time with people is important to create an experience for our guests.”

His future plans also include cooking classes for four to eight people in an intimate setting. The class will consist of a trip to the market, during which Plumail will guide you in choosing the freshest ingredients. Then, you will return to the villa and cook together. “I want everyone to be working and active in the class and not just watching me cook,” he says of the small class size.

Starting in December 2024, Plumail is organizing and hosting high-end brunches, including champagne, with reservations only.  

And if Plumail life wasn’t busy enough, I soon learned of his second passion in life – running. “I love to eat,” he said. “But I don’t want to get fat. And so, I must exercise.”

That “exercise” is three Ironman competitions — two in France, one in Germany, and over twenty marathons worldwide. Last year, he climbed Pico de Orizaba, Mexico’s highest mountain, at 5,600 meters. Next year, Plumail plans to climb the Aconcagua in Argentina, which is 6,900 meters. He is in training now. 

Through it all, Plumail confessed his love of passing on his knowledge to others, often for free, such as a class at the nearby Universidad Tecnológica de la Costa Grande de Guerrero. “I love to teach and I know what it’s like to have little money to learn and study. And all the time, you are an apprentice.” Although Plumail hesitated to talk about his philanthropy and charity work teaching budding chefs, often for free, he says, “You have to give back.”

Writer Elizabeth Ashe divides her time between Canada and Zihuatanejo.

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Patterned after the Greek Acropolis Parthenon in Athens, the Greek capital, it was a majestic Hellenistic structure. Today, the Parthenon of Zihuatanejo is a ruined structure, much like that of its Greek counterpart. 

Over the years, I was lured by friends to visit it several times, sometimes able to enter without a guard in place but usually stopped by military personnel or a caretaker, who, for a “fee,” would allow us to look around. The late Dennis Johnson, a former expat and  Canadian publisher, accompanied me on one of my visits, and the following is a combination of his notes and my research. The history is dark.

A troubled past

Built during the 1980s by Mexico City’s wickedly excessive Chief of Police, Arturo Durazo Moreno (otherwise known as “El Negro” Durazo), the Parthenon is a testament to the corruption of the man. 

It began when Durazo’s boyhood friend, José López Portillo, became the president of Mexico in 1976. As one of Mexico’s most corrupt presidents, López Portillo turned to loyal Durazo for his security and appointed him to be his chief of Police, knowing that he had been under investigation in the US for almost a year for drug trafficking. 

During Durazo’s six-year tenure (from 1976 to 1982), he turned the police force into a racketeering organization and built his empire of corruption. He extorted money at every turn and lived a lavish lifestyle. He made a fortune from the bribes paid by the rank-and-file police officers under his command, and he used them as his construction labor force to build the Parthenon in Zihuatanejo, one of Guerrero’s most visited beaches. But that was not all. Canadian writer Jessica Devnani wrote, “he used it as his own personal playhouse with extravagant parties fueled with drugs, prostitutes and other sinful activities”. 

Although Durazo was lauded for his work in lowering the crime rate in Mexico City and was even honored with a prestigious award in the Soviet Union for doing so, his methods were discovered to be beyond brutal when the tortured bodies of 12 Colombians suspected of bank robbery turned up in a river. An investigation into his practices began, ultimately revealing his elaborate pyramid scheme of bribes and payoffs.

Durazo’s fortune changed once again, this time not for the better, with the arrival of a new presidential administration, Miguel de la Madrid, whose campaign theme was “Moral Renewal.” 

Durazo fled the country, and an international search ensued. After charging him in absentia with racketeering, Mexican and U.S. authorities tracked him down in Costa Rica in 1984 and brought him back to trial in Mexico. Durazo was charged with a long range of offenses, from corruption to extortion, tax evasion, drug kickbacks and possession of illegal weapons. He was given 25 years in prison; though he was released after less than eight, in 1992 due to ill health and good conduct. He lived out his final days in Acapulco, redeeming himself a bit by working with recovering alcoholics. He died of cancer in 2000.

Before his death, Durazo’s chief bodyguard, José González, wrote a runaway bestseller in 1980 about his evil boss, entitled “Lo Negro Del Durazo”. A movie quickly followed. Never allowing himself to be out-maneuvered, Durazo won a defamation lawsuit against his former aide from behind prison bars.

A return to former glory

 

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The restoration of Mexico’s version has been completely revitalized into a breathtakingly beautiful monument, thanks to the former administration of mayor Jorge Sánchez Alec and the city of Zihuatanejo.

Today, the Parthenon reflects its appearance in all its former glory. The once-chained tigers and the disco used for wild parties are gone, and the swimming pool has been removed. The gates have been refurbished, weeds have been pulled, and gardens have been tended to. Statues and murals have been replaced and repainted, and rooms that were once bedrooms complete with hanging beds will now be used as special events rooms, functions and exhibitions, five halls in all, according to Tourism Director Jesús Gallegos Galván. 

There will be concerts and other cultural events but, says Gallegos, no private events such as weddings and no alcohol will be served. General seating will hold up to 500 people. There will be a small fee — 100 pesos for outside tourists, 50 pesos for locals and free for handicapped and older adults. Students will be charged just 20 pesos. 

There will also be a small café where you can purchase coffee and other beverages and relax. At the same time, you admire a view that is as spectacular as the bay of Zihuatanejo itself.

The inauguration, which happened recently on November 6 to much fanfare, was presided over by Guerrero state Governor Evelyn Salgado Pineda and Zihuantanejo’s current mayor, Lizette Tapia. Following this, the first major cultural event of the year, known as Tropifashion, was held on November 29 of this year and is sure to set the stage for an exciting year ahead for other cultural events.

The writer divides her time between Canada and Zihuatanejo.

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