In the case of cider, there is evidence of ancient production methods that included apples and other fruits. The closest historical reference, already distinguishing the almost exclusive use of apples, comes from the Romans, who called it sikera, which became sidra in Spanish, and spread throughout Europe during the campaigns of the Roman Empire. 

How cider arrived in Mexico

Cider was particularly important in the Celtic regions of western Europe. However, it was the Asturian and Basque peoples who became among the most famous producers on the content, although British production and consumption remains higher. To this day, Northern Spain is considered one of the best cider-producing regions in Europe, and several very important regional festivals, such as the one in Nava in July and the one in Gijón in August, celebrate the annual cider production with competitions and public tastings.

Cider arrived in Mexico with the Spanish. The first ships to arrive in the Americas already had drinks such as cider, brandy and wine on board. Once apples started to be cultivated in the Americas, local production began on the continent. 

The drink was first consumed solely by Europeans, but soon became popular with locals as well. There are substantial differences between European cider and Mexican cider, starting with the type of apples used. There are currently more than 70 types used in production. Production and serving methods vary. In Spain, it is common to pour cider from a bottle placed high above your glass. Carbonated or sparkling cider, first produced during the 19th century, is now the most popular in Mexico.

Where cider is made in Mexico

Little by little, cider became a staple on Mexican tables, mainly for festive events. It is customary for cider to be present during the end-of-the-year holidays, during the Christmas period, especially on Christmas Eve and New Year’s Eve, for the traditional midnight toast. There are other drinks, which are more representative in other parts of the world, such as Champagne or other sparkling wines, but in Mexico, cider is a must.

Production is concentrated in three states — Tlaxcala, Hidalgo and Puebla — with the latter playing the leading role in terms of quantity and quality.

The Zacatlán municipality in Puebla is renowned for its high production levels and is even called Zacatlán de las manzanas (Zacatlán of the Apples), but it is a smaller municipality, Huejotzingo, that has attracted attention in recent years.

Its volcanic soil produces exceptional fruit, its production is the largest in the state, and its uniqueness has earned it a Geographical Indication (GI) designation.

A few months ago, the Mexican Institute of Intellectual Property (IMPI), the body that grants these designations in Mexico, awarded the category of Geographical Indication (GI) to the cider produced in Huejotzingo, Puebla.

Making cider in Puebla

This has been very well received by local producers. Apples here are mainly grown in the Iztla-Popo region, which gives them special characteristics, as this type of soil provides minerality to the crops grown there.

Four hundred families are involved in the production of cider and will benefit from this recognition. Their production represents 85% of the national annual production.

Geographical Indications or Designations of Origin are a way of safeguarding the quality and tradition of unique regional products. Whether in terms of the product itself, the traditional methods used, or the location where they originate. In Mexico, the Made in Mexico label, Designations of Origin, and Geographical Indications are becoming increasingly common as a way of recognizing and safeguarding the making and location of unique products.

Other cider-producing locales in Mexico

It should be noted that there are projects that are beginning to produce more artisanal ciders, such as Altos Norte, a winery from Jalisco that has quickly made a name for itself in the market thanks to the quality of its wines. Today, they are adding a cider to their portfolio. The apples are sourced from Puebla, and the cider is produced at their winery located in the Altos de Jalisco region. I recommend you don’t miss the following article, where we have a pleasant conversation with the owners and winemakers.

And to conclude my recommendation, a cider from another state in the north of the country, Coahuila, Casa Vigas de Arteaga, has been producing high-quality cider since 1935, packaged in a practical 355 milliliter size with a screw cap so you can open and enjoy it at any time. 

Markets and occasions

Today, cider has become common around the world. By definition, it must be made mainly from apples, although in some places, such as France, it may contain a smaller percentage of pears. It is available year-round and can be enjoyed as an aperitif or with desserts. It has antioxidant and digestive properties, and its alcohol content ranges from 4% to 12%, making it an easy drink to consume. 

Global consumption has been on the rise, with Argentina and Mexico leading in production and consumption in the Americas. In a few years, we will surely see it on many more occasions than just New Year’s Eve parties. Globally, France is the largest producer and the United Kingdom the largest consumer, although Asia is a market that has also grown significantly in recent years.

Diana Serratos studied at Universidad Nacional Autónoma de México (UNAM) and UNCUYO in Mendoza, Argentina, where she lived for over 15 years. She specializes in wines and beverages, teaching aspiring sommeliers at several universities. She conducts courses, tastings and specialized training.

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We Mexicans eat these sweet, nutritious, crunchy bars made with amaranth seeds, called alegría, or joy in English. But what is amaranth, and why is it so important?

Amaranth is a seed from the plant of the same name, and it’s used similarly to some cereals, which is why it is called a pseudo-grain, meaning we use it like a grain, but it’s not from the grass family like wheat, oats, barley or rice. Buckwheat and quinoa fall into this same pseudo-grain category.

A native Mexican nutritional powerhouse

Mexico, one of the places where amaranth originated, is the main producer and consumer of this plant. 

Considered one of the most complete foods on the planet, amaranth’s protein value is comparable to that of meat, and it has more protein than corn, wheat or rice. 

Amaranth contains vitamins A, B, B1, B2, B3, and C. The B complex is found in a few foods, making alegrias one of the tastiest ways to obtain B complex vitamins in your diet. These nutritious plants also provide minerals, the amino acid lysine, folic acid, niacin, calcium, iron and phosphorus. It also contains polyunsaturated fats, i.e., the good ones, omega-3 and omega-6. 

Amaranth’s high fiber content makes it highly recommended for regulating digestion. It’s also gluten-free, making it ideal for people with celiac disease. Or for those who are lactose intolerant, blended with water, it becomes a milk substitute.

In 1975, after multiple studies conducted by the U.S. National Academy of Sciences, amaranth was recognized as one of the world’s most highly nutritious plant-based foods. In the fields of nutrition science and public health policy, researchers around the world see promise in amaranth as one of the highly nutritious plant-based food sources that not only can keep up with meat in terms of caloric and protein content but is also a more sustainable protein source to farm than animals.

Amaranth’s history

The amaranth plant is endemic to the Americas, but its name comes from the Greek amaranthus, meaning “immortal,” because it blooms year-round. The Aztecs called it huauhtli, and in South America, it’s kiwicha in the Guarani language.

Although it was known and consumed throughout much of the Americas, it is in south-central Mexico where there are more references to its use, as well as records of its existence dating back approximately 8,000 years. For special occasions, various Indigenous peoples of Mexico made figurines of gods, humans, or animals from amaranth grains bathed in maguey honey. They were consumed on dates similar to the modern-day celebrations of Day of the Dead.

Amaranth today

Currently, Puebla state is Mexico’s main amaranth producer, followed by Tlaxcala, Morelos, parts of southern Mexico City and Oaxaca. 

The United States, China and India all cultivate amaranth and scientists continue to research its properties. 

The grains are roasted whole and used to make sweets or coat meat or vegetables, sprinkle on salads, or accompany other dishes. It is often mixed with other cereals and nuts and eaten with milk. Amaranth can also be used in sauces, adding texture and nutritional value to dishes.

It can be processed into a flour, a lifesaver for the gluten-intolerant.

It is also made into sweet and savory snacks. Alegrias, for example — the iconic Mexican sweet treat — can be found year-round here. Reminiscent of granola bars, these are bars made of puffed amaranth seeds covered in a sweet syrup to hold everything together. Often, peanuts, walnuts, pepitas and raisins are included. 

Engineer Rodolfo Neri, remembered for being the first Mexican to travel into space, was authorized to take amaranth with him after several studies of the grain were endorsed by NASA and several universities. During the trip, it was not only part of his diet, but research was also conducted on its cultivation in space.

Amaranth’s resistance to drought and ability to grow in arid soils has allowed this plant to continue to provide us for more than 8,000 years with such a complete food.

Diana Serratos studied at Universidad Nacional Autónoma de México (UNAM) and UNCUYO in Mendoza, Argentina, where she lived for over 15 years. She specializes in wines and beverages, teaching aspiring sommeliers at several universities. She conducts courses, tastings and specialized training.

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Today, the state has three wineries that stand out, with a future outlook predicting many more in the coming years, as the once notable area looks to reestablish its one great vineyards.

Bodega Entreerres

Bodega Entreerres is located in Calpa, Puebla, a town famous for its part in the creation of chile en nogada, a dish prepared for General Agustin Iturbide during Mexican Independence and now one of the country’s most famous recipes.

It is surrounded by beautiful landscapes, with the Popocatépetl and Iztaccíhuatl volcanoes in the distance. Getting to the winery takes about 30 minutes from the city of Puebla. There is an on site restaurant and eight different wine varietals that you can taste after a walk through the vineyards.

Their white wine production stands out, particularly the Sauvignon Blanc. Interestingly, however, Entreerres offers a red wine made with Pinot Noir. While Pinot Noir is famously difficult to cultivate, it has taken very well to the soils of Puebla, producing a delicious blend that is well worth trying. The must-try bottle is NTC 2021, which has won national awards. Another, S1, is an equally well-made Syrah wine that expresses the character of this powerful grape variety grown in volcanic soil.

Visits are available on weekends by reservation only.

Santo Domingo

Atlixco is one of the best-known towns in Puebla, located at the foot of the region’s volcanoes. It is a magical town famous for its flower production, as well as its high-quality mezcal.

A few years ago, the Santo Domingo Vineyard in Atlixco opened its doors to the wine tourism scene. The project began in 2008, with vines imported from France and across the Americas. The plants here are nourished by the uniquely rich volcanic soil at the base of Popocatépetl and Iztaccíhuatl volcanoes, considered to have special properties.

Here, the rosé wines made from Malbec grapes stand out. There is a sparkling and a still wine, both called “Ceniza” (Ash), bin tribute to Santo Domingo’s proximity to the volcanoes and the characteristics that this type of soil provides.

The vineyard’s rosé wines are ideal for Puebla’s most famous dishes, its moles and chiles en nogada and cemitas.

Visits are by reservation only and require a minimum of ten people.

Casa Miguel Henández

Miguel Hernandez is a Mexican oenologist who studied in France and Chile and is an expert in vineyard development. He has had a distinguished career, studying in Europe and South America and working with major wineries and projects in those regions. He has even been a jury member at the Chasselas World Competition in Switzerland. In 2011, he decided to return to his roots, launching his own project in Cholula, Puebla, hoping to promote wine culture in his home state.

Today, his vineyards can be found in 14 locations throughout the state, providing employment to more than 32 families dedicated to growing grapes and producing wine. Make sure to try his Pinot Noir if you stop by.

Tierra y Almas

In the neighbouring state of Hidalgo, specifically, the town of Tecozautla, lies the Tierra y Almas vineyard. Nestled in a magic town of its own, the wine and nature together hand in hand.

Here, you can enjoy a grand reserve made with Cabernet Sauvignon, a powerful Malbec, and a well-balanced rosé blend of Syrah and Malbec, which is fresh but powerful enough to accompany mature cheeses.

Tierra y Alma also produces sparkling wine made from the Xarel-lo and Macabeo grape varieties, in the style of Cava. There is an on site museum which provides additional information to enhance the overall experience. It has rooms for rent, a thermal pool, gardens, and green spaces with views from the terraces of the rooms.

As one of the closest wineries to Mexico City, it makes for a perfect weekend getaway when you’re tired of the big city bustle.

Mexican Wine Day

October 7 is Mexican Wine Day, a date that has been celebrated since 2023 and has served to promote production, consumption, and awareness of the national wine industry. In recent years, the importance of domestic production has grown, more producers have joined the industry, quality has improved, and the variety of labels has increased each year.

Diana Serratos studied at Universidad Nacional Autónoma de México (UNAM) and UNCUYO in Mendoza, Argentina, where she lived for over 15 years. She specializes in wines and beverages, teaching aspiring sommeliers at several universities. She conducts courses, tastings and specialized training.

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In the last decade, Coahuila wineries have won more than 1,500 awards and recognitions in Mexican and international wine competitions, with the participation of Mexico’s iconic Casa Madero — North America’s oldest winery — being a highlight. 

This recognition of the state’s wineries will hopefully sustain and strengthen Coahuila’s unique wine route, which currently has 11 participating wineries and additional vineyards to visit off the official route. 

Known as the Wines and Dinosaurs Route for its excellently preserved prehistoric fossil remains found throughout, this route — which features snails, turtles and algae fossils, as well as natural formations from the Mesozoic and Cenozoic periods — has plans to become even more accessible for tourists in the near future. 

Before we begin part two of our profiles of Coahuila’s wineries, we ought to mention a great way to get to know Coahuila wines that’s coming up this month: La Gran Vendimia Festival Internacional del Vino y la Buena Vida, happening in Parras de la Fuente on July 19 at the Rincón Montero Hotel.

The event will feature local and national wines as well as wines from around the world. This event is expected to strengthen tourism and recognition of Coahuila and Mexican wines, , as well as be a great opportunity for hotels and restaurants in the region.

Can’t make this event? Then check out any of these wineries on your own time! 

Casa Náufrago

Located in Los Hoyos, Parras de las Fuentes, this winery spans 100 hectares, boasting several microclimates considered exceptional for grape cultivation. 

Casa Náufrago’s winemaker is the renowned Francisco “Paco” Rodríguez, a winemaking pioneer previously at the aforementioned Casa Madero. Rodríguez’s wines are undoubtedly a must-try. Casa Naufrago’s wine-tasting experience is complemented by the winery’s architecture, vineyard tours and its cuisine.

Hacienda Florida

Ten years ago, Hacienda Florida celebrated its first grape harvest, led by Salomón Abedrop, its founder and the current president of the Mexican Wine Council. He’s a man known for his experience in the field and his love for his land.

Located in the town of General Cépeda, between Saltillo and Torreón, Hacienda Florida now boasts 20 hectares of vineyards, whose vines are French imports.

From the beginning, Hacienda Florida’s mission has been to produce elegant, standout wines in a boutique setting. It currently has a line of 11 reds that have won many awards at competitions such as the Concours Mondial de Bruxelles and Global Wine. 

The day-to-day winemaking is led by Debanhi Torres, a young Mexican winemaker who is also collaborating with winemakers from other countries.

Hacienda Florida’s shiraz and grenache blend is a standout – a Gran Reserva aged for 15 months in French and American oak barrels. The single-varietal malbec is another of this winery’s best bottles, as is a white wine made from verdejo grapes and a rosé blend of grenache and cabernet sauvignon.

The estate’s restaurant, La Terraza, is elegantly decorated with a splendid view of the vineyards and even a dinosaur-themed decor.

Bodega Amonites 

On the road from General Cépeda to Parras, is a newer winery, Bodega Amonites, named for the remains of ammonites — prehistoric marine cephalopods — found in the area.  Amonites’ top priority is respect for the terroir, and it’s working to convert its land into a protected nature reserve. This is one of the 11 wineries on the Wines and Dinosaurs Route 

At 1,300 meters above sea level, Bodega Amonites has the ideal climate for grape growing — warm days and cool nights. In 2021, the winery planted its first malbec and syrah vines, cultivated on 2 hectares, with purposefully low yields to maintain the grapes’ quality. In 2022, Bodega Amonites planted cabernet franc, nebbiolo and primitivo. 

The winery is only open on weekends, and tours there are always accompanied by an archeological tour, tastings, local cheeses, barbecue, charcuterie and, naturally, Coahuila-style burritos!

Vinícola El Fortín

Located in the municipality of Buenaventura, Vinicola El Fortín’s history began as Rancho El Fortín, with its introduction of France’s Charolais beef cattle to Mexico and to the continent. Rancho El Fortín still sells this premium, hard-to-find meat today. It also bred four-mile horses until it was acquired by Jesús Ramón Valdés, who decided to incorporate wine production into the ranch’s activities.

In 2008, he sought out the help of Jose Milmo, then the owner of Casa Madero, and thus began the history of what is now one of the most prestigious wineries in the country. 

Vinícola El Fortin’s vines, imported from France, adapted perfectly to the climatic conditions of their land, which,  sits at over 1,200 meters above sea level. Vinícola El Fortín produces elegant and aromatic high-altitude red wines with a powerful palate and polished tannins — wines to savor and pair with a good cut of meat

Wineries in northern and central Coahuila

Piedras Negras, Coahuila, the northernmost wine-producing town in the state, is home to Vinicola Don Baldomero, which from its beginnings has primarily produced potent and alcoholic wines made from shiraz grapes. 

In the center of the state, in Múzquiz and in Cuatro Ciénegas, are the Ferriño and the Vinos Vitali wineries, both founded by Miguel Ferriño in the 19th century and now owned by his descendants. These wines are sweet, either natural or fortified port-style, and these wineries also produce a brandy.

The dry climate and low rainfall allow the grapes to ripen with high levels of sugars, glucose and fructose, ideal for this type of wine. Ferriño produces the popular and sweet Sangre de Cristo wine and offers tours and tastings.

Wineries from Coahuila’s Sierra del Arteaga region

The Sierra del Arteaga, a region of valleys nestled between mountains, at altitudes of over 2,000 meters above sea level, is home to what are known as high-altitude wines, with ideal climatic conditions for producing aromatic, fresh, and elegant vintages. Among the wineries you’ll find here is Terra Serena, which boasts an unsurpassed lakeside trail, mountain views, and well-crafted wines. Bodegas Del Viento and Los Pinos benefit from the beauty of the landscape around them; their services include tours and tastings, accompanied by charcuterie and cheeses made in the region.

In coming years, Coahuila, the awakening behemoth, is destined to be the main character in the story of Mexican wine.

Reservations are recommended for all visits and are available online at each winery’s website. 

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Zona Vino

 

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Zona Vino has become a Mexico City tradition and its 10th edition promises to be one of its best. The event will take place at the headquarters of newspaper Reforma, a beautiful neoclassical building in Santa Cruz Atoyac, Benito Juárez. 

On June 7 and 8, starting at 11 a.m., the very best of Mexican and imported wine and gourmet cuisine will be presented in tastings and pairings. International labels such as Vinos Wagner, La Madrileña and La Castellana will be present alongside Mexican wineries like L.A. Cetto and Chateau Camou, among others. These wineries will offer the very best of their vast catalogs and provide an incredible opportunity for event goers to get to know new wineries. 

Tickets can be purchased online or on the day of the event on the premises. Event-goers with subscriptions to Reforma can take advantage of special discounts. 

Feria Internacional del Vino

On June 6 and 7, San Luis Potosí will host the 13th Feria Internacional del Vino (International Wine Fair). With over 500 different wineries, this event is one of the region’s most important. The event will be hosted in the Centro de la Artes, built as a jail in the 1800s, which held famous inmates including revolutionary and future president Francisco I. Madero. 

The event is organized into 13 pavilions that each offer different experiences for attendees. In the Salon de Toneles guests will be led in wine tastings by a team of experts while next door at the Gastronomy pavilion delicious food will be available to accompany your wine. Take them both to go and you can have a picnic in one of the event’s outdoor green spaces. 

If you love mezcal there will also be opportunities to try various local brands — San Luis Potosi is famous for its mezcal — as well as mezcal brands from across the country.  Beer lovers haven’t been forgotten either. The fair will host booths dedicated to craft beer in addition to well-known international brands like Heineken, one of the event’s sponsors. 

All of this will be accompanied by live music as well as a space dedicated to circus arts. This festival is two days full of alcohol, food and art.  

The beautiful venue features sculptures scattered throughout, a reflecting pool, an old guard tower and a museum dedicated to surrealist painter and sculptor Leonora Carrington.

This year’s guest country is Argentina, so be sure to try some Argentine wines while you’re there. Among the industry stars in attendance is Alejandro Vigil, who’s become one of Argentina’s most lauded winemakers in the past several years. His time at the Catena vineyard definitely left its mark on the brand, as they are currently considered some of the best wines in the world. Vigil’s new project, El Enemigo, is making waves with its Cabernet Franc and is an absolute must to try at the festival.

Fevino: El Festival del Vino Mexicano

 

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 Also on June 7 the annual Fevino festival will be back in Guadalajara, this time taking place in the Jardín Parque Ávila Camacho. More than 60 wineries will be in attendance including many from Jalisco; though  a newcomer in the Mexican wine industry, the state is producing extremely high-quality bottles. 

The Altos Nortes Vinícola, Cerca Blanca, Cava Post Data and La Estramancia wineries are all putting Jalisco on the map and the state even has its own wine route now that includes local cuisine, ceramics and stops for the spirit the state is most famous for: tequila. 

As the national wine industry continues to grow and expand, these three festivals will show you just how good a Mexican glass can be.

Diana Serratos studied at Universidad Nacional Autónoma de México (UNAM) and UNCUYO in Mendoza, Argentina, where she lived for over 15 years. She specializes in wines and beverages, teaching aspiring sommeliers at several universities. She conducts courses, tastings and specialized training.

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Considered the place where winemaking began in the Americas at the end of the 16th century, Coahuila’s winemaking region is Parras de la Fuente (Vines of the Fountain) — named for the pre-Columbian grapes found growing in the area when the Spanish arrived.

The Spanish colonists found the grapes unsuitable for wine, but their presence demonstrated that the local environment could support grape-growing and encouraged them to plant Vitis vinifera, wine-producing grapes. Initially, the Spanish grew misión grapes. The adaptation successful, they began testing other varieties. 

In more recent years, thanks to technological advances, the improvement in yield and quality in this region has been notable, and today, this region’s production is already recognized worldwide. It currently has nine winemaking areas, a total of 29 operating wineries and more than 20 wineries in the works.

In other words, Coahuila’s wine region is a monster awakening.

While you may not have heard of its wines, Coahuila is the second largest wine producer in Mexico, with more than 100 brands on the market. And it aims to become the country’s leading wine producer under a Vinos de Coahuila (Coahuila Wines) designation, which is awaiting Protected Geographical Indication (PGI) recognition by the European Union later this year.

Coahuila’s southeast

In the southeast, you’ll find Parras and other wine production areas: General Cepeda, Ramos Arizpe, Saltillo and Arteaga. This region is the state’s largest production area, as well as its best-known. The environment is a semi-desert, with little rainfall and extreme day-night temperature differences, ideal conditions for vine development.

In this region, south of the city of Saltillo, is one of the most prominent wineries, San Juan de la Vaquería, whose high-quality wines left me with the best taste in my mouth this year. With the town of San Juan de la Vaquería dating back to the 16th and early 17th centuries, it’s possibly Coahuila’s oldest wine-producing site.

Its climate is semi-desert, with hot days and cool nights, and the average altitude is 1,800 meters above sea level, ideal for growing grapes.

The Aguirre family, owners of the winery, has been here for four generations. In 2008, they began their winemaking adventure, encouraged by Jose Milmo, a well-known regional businessman and former owner of the Casa Madero winery, which we’ll discuss later. The Aguirres have plans to expand their 20-hectare plantings to 40 more hectares and incorporate walnut trees and other crops onto the estate.

The Aguirre patriarch, Gerardo Aguirre Flores, a professional agricultural engineer, brought the family’s first grafts from France. With his family, he established what is now one of the most interesting wineries in the region.

His son, Gerardo Aguirre Lobo, also an engineer, selects their vines from France and has over time increased the winery’s varietals to include Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Malbec, Merlot, Petit Verdot and Syrah, as well as white varieties such as Verdejo and Chardonnay. Gerardo Jr., the family winery’s third-generation member, is in charge of winemaking. 

Meanwhile, Gerardo’s daughter, architect Sofía Elena Aguirre Lobo, handles the business’ marketing side. She also used her architectural knowledge in the winery’s construction, so that its design evokes a nearby fossil site. A place worth visiting.

The reds are powerful yet refined. The family’s blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot is popularly known here as “the house wine” for having won over local palates, and has received international acclaim as well. It spends 12 months in French and American oak barrels, which softens the natural potency of the young grapes. There are other reds, but this one is iconic. 

Their rosé wine, made with Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec grapes, is very balanced, full-bodied and yet smooth on the palate — fruity and with good acidity. Among the whites, the Verdejo stands out, the only grape variety imported from Spain instead of France.

The cuisine here is equally important. In addition to having chef Ana Carmen, another of the siblings, in the family, San Juan de la Vaquería has sought out expert advice in setting up the winery’s restaurant, which pairs their wines with Mexican dishes and regional cheeses. Coahuila has its own cheese route in and around the General Cepeda region, that has been producing cheese for generations. 

The region is also known for its cattle and goat farming. For this reason, the meat of both animals is part of the state’s tradition. A cheese platter of Cotija, enchilado and goat cheeses accompanied by walnuts from their harvest is a must.

Pairings are based on Mexican dishes. Burritos, typical of northern Mexico, are accompanied by the rosé or house wine. 

Casa Madero

Casa Madero has been a benchmark for quality, exportable wine for years. It is the oldest winery in the Americas, founded in 1597. Although production onsite has not been continuous throughout history — it produced brandy at one time—  its overall staying power has earned it the title of oldest winery on the continent. 

Its history is linked to the Madero family, from which came former Mexican president Francisco I. Madero.

The winery offers rooms in the Hacienda de San Lorenzo, a beautiful space with a handful of high-ceilinged, large rooms. Its simple yet traditional decor stands out, with large embroidered looms decorating each room.

Other wineries in the area, like Don Leo, also stand out. Don Leo is notable for its kosher production. 

Rivero González, whose wines are synonymous with quality, is an area with wineries producing whites and rosés., But undoubtedly, it’s the reds that stand out, thanks to the vineyards’ average altitude of 2,000 meters above sea level, which contributes to the reds’ rich aromas. 

Thanks to Coahuila’s unique archeological features, on this region, you’ll  find winery tours combined with paleontological sites featuring dinosaur fossils and fossilized marine life. 

The Wine-Dino Route offers visits to Valle Colorado, better known as the Valley of the Dinosaurs, and the Desert Museum, where, in addition to fossils, there are relics from the ancient cultures that inhabited the area. It is truly a unique experience. 

Diana Serratos studied at Universidad Nacional Autónoma de México (UNAM) and UNCUYO in Mendoza, Argentina, where she lived for over 15 years. She specializes in wines and beverages, teaching aspiring sommeliers at several universities. She conducts courses, tastings and specialized training.

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There are many groups of people that make an industry like winemaking successful. The most obvious are the wine producers and consumers, but there are other organizations that also play a part in the success.

One of the most important institutions in the history of Mexican grape growing was founded nearly 80 years ago but has only come to public prominence recently: the Mexican Wine Council (CMV).

The CMV was founded in 1948, in large part due to the support of its first president, grape grower Nazario Ortiz Garza, who once served as governor of Coahuila, the state home to the oldest winery in the Americas. It was formed with a mission to protect, strengthen, and organize all grape producers, whether they were producing table grapes, grapes for raisins, grapes for brandy, juice grapes, or, of course, wine grapes. For years, the group’s work was invisible, but today nearly 90 percent of all Mexican grape producers are represented on the CMV’s rolls.

Their work’s positive results can be seen in a unified industry of both producers and distributors, an increase in grape production through innovative yet sustainable practices and the promotion and positioning of the Vino Mexicano brand — and the quality, production and presence in the market of national wines.

Today, the council is presided over by Salomón Abedrop López, a Coahuila wine producer and head of Hacienda Florida. Architect Ana Paula Robles has been the General Director of the CMV since September 2023.

The Mexican Wine Council is made up of a vast number of numerary and honorary members, who are involved in grape growing projects that align with CMV’s mission and strategic efforts. Thanks to representation in various state and regional groups, today the CMV is a collection of more than 300 wineries in the country. The organization is also directly affiliated with business groups, international organizations, universities and research centers all interested in the production, sale and promotion of Mexican wine. Government at both the federal and state levels have also passed bills in recent years that favor the wine industry.

Through collaboration, the CMV continues to consolidate a growing and cohesive industry, promoting the expansion of grape growing in Mexico and strengthening the position of Mexican wine in the national and international market.

The CMV continues to evolve in order to assure a competitive, innovative and sustainable future for winemaking in Mexico. Among its achievements is the highly visible growth of production and consumption of Mexican wine. Today, the CMV represents wine producers in 17 states, reflecting not only geographic expansion but also a diversification and consolidation of new regional producers. A large majority of this growth is represented by small producers.

The council’s efforts can be seen in the international recognition of the quality of Mexican wines. In 2024, Mexican wine won 884 medals at international contests, an increase of 40 percent over 2023 numbers, putting Mexico on a competitive level with other major wine-producing countries in the world.

National consumption has gone up as well: today, the CMV says, 39 of every 100 bottles of wine enjoyed in Mexico are Mexican, and wine is the second most consumed alcoholic drink in the country.

Wine tourism has also seen dramatic growth: last year, 2 million visitors were registered as having toured Mexican wineries, with an economic impact of 10 million pesos. In 2022, in collaboration with the federal Tourism Ministry (Sectur) and the tourism boards of 14 wine-producing states, the CMV created the first catalogue of wine routes and wine tourism projects in Mexico. A guide for national and international tourists, it has enriched wine tourism experiences and benefits local communities.

One of the upcoming projects within Mexico’s winemaking industry is its participation in the 2026 FIFA World Cup, which will be hosted in Mexico City, Guadalajara and Monterrey. This collaboration will position wine tourism as an attractive option for visitors, integrating sports tourism with cultural and culinary experiences.

Education and training producers is a fundamental part of offering quality tourism options. That’s why the CMV maintains close relations with international allies who share best practices and specialized knowledge.

One example is the council’s conference cycle on sustainable wine tourism, organized in collaboration with the National University of Cuyo (UNCUYO) in Mendoza, Argentina. This virtual conference discusses strategies that Mexican producers can use to strengthen their tourism offerings in a responsible way and shares experiences and successful models that can be adapted in Mexico’s wine regions.

While Mexico has yet to establish an official appellation of origin for a wine region, the identification of special wine regions starts by obtaining a geographical indication, a sign that indicates the origin of a product and links its quality to its place of origin’s reputation. In wine terms, a geographical indication can be another way of recognizing the quality of certain winemaking areas. Last month, however, the state of Querétaro became the first Mexican state to secure geographical indication status for its wines, which will now be protected by the Vinos de la Región Vitivinícola de Querétaro (Querétaro Wine-Producing Region) label.

The strengthening of Mexican wine’s identity through the consolidation of the Vino Mexicano brand as well as National Mexican Wine Day on Oct. 7 is blazing a trail for others to follow, backing the national wine industry and positioning Mexican wine’s participation in events, fairs and tastings that promote responsible but frequent consumption.

The next few years look bright, and industry participants are optimistic about a steady growth in winemaking that will benefit the entire country.

Cheers to Mexican Wine!

Diana Serratos studied at Universidad Nacional Autónoma de México (UNAM) and UNCUYO in Mendoza, Argentina, where she lived for over 15 years. She specializes in wines and beverages, teaching aspiring sommeliers at several universities. She conducts courses, tastings and specialized training.

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Vineyards are growing in quality and product development and annual harvest festivals are each year more spectacular than the last. Wine tours are now a reality. Wine, culture, food, nature, and even architecture offer visitors incredible and diverse experiences. 

The country’s two most important wine routes are in Ensenada, Baja California and in the Bajio region in the center of the country which spans Querétaro and Guanajuato. 

The Baja Route, as it’s called, starts in Ensenada and will take you on a tour of more than 70 wineries tucked into various nearby valleys close to the coast — Valle de Guadalupe, Santo Tomas, Ojos Negros, and San Vicente. 

We’ve discussed Valle de Guadalupe and its excellent wine country, food and hospitality at length already, but Mexico’s other major wine route is the Ruta del Bajio, which runs between the states of Querétaro and Guanajuato.

Colonial architecture is around every corner. Ancient mansions, aqueducts, Talavera tile, and artistic mosaics all form a part of this landscape. The region’s history dates back to the first vineyards in Mexico and despite years of negligible production, is now home to a booming industry. 

The section of the wine route that snakes through Querétaro is known as the Vino, Queso y Arte route (Wine, Cheese, and Art), as the area is known for its cheese production. Local vineyard Casa Martell, a long-time regional producer of brandy is now undergoing a renovation to convert its vines from brandy to wine production. In this part of the country there are more than 50 vineyards. 

Querétaro

Cadereyta

Among the many wineries is Freixenet, a prestigious brand of cava that originated near Barcelona, Spain. Each year, their days-long harvest festival is one of the most attended in the country. It’s helpful to remember that harvest time in Mexico is from July to September, with each vineyard choosing the right moment in celebration of that year’s grapes.

Freixenet also hosts an annual paella festival where experts and amateurs alike test their culinary skills and visitors themselves can try a variety of paellas and taste wines from across the region. These activities and festivals have helped make Freixenet México the most visited winery in the country.

Ezequiel Montes

Another important winery along the route is Bodega La Redonda, which in 2025 celebrates a half century of making wine with concerts and events throughout the year. 

The most anticipated is the Wine Colors festival, celebrated this year in May. The festival offers two days of music, tastings, wine pairings, fireworks, exclusive dining and drinking areas, excellent cuisine and the option to stay at the Merlot Inn, which has a pool and a spa on site. They also offer a “wine glamping” package perfect for couples that includes evening strolls through the grape vines. There’s also a trattoría serving authentic Italian food alongside the great wine.

Tequesquiapan

Further along the route, is the charming town of Tequisquiapan, complete with a local wine museum. This colonial town has a central plaza full of restaurants and bars, that accompany their wine tastings with cheese and charcuterie. Most places are very close and make it easy to move around between the wineries and the towns. 

Tequesquiapan is also home to Tres Raíces vineyard, a relatively young project that offers both a hotel and a vineyard for guests. The space is modern but constructed with Talavera tile and ceramics from the region and is beautiful both inside and out. From their terrace there is a spectacular view of the vineyards and architecture built to blend with the natural surroundings. Their Riesling, aged on lees, stands out as some of their best wine, It’s silky, vibrant and a complete delight for the palate. Tres Raíces’ reds are highly complex, with the relatively unknown caladoc varietal worth a try if you want to be blown away by the quality of Mexican wine. 

San Juanito

A short distance away from Tequesquiapan is San Juanito, a boutique winery known for its wine made from a single varietal of grape. They’ve submitted a proposal for an Appellation of Origin for this area as they grow a type of Tempranillo is acutely adapted to the microclimate here, called Tinta de Bernal. 

Guanajuato

Dolores Hidalgo

Crossing state lines into Guanajuato lies the oldest wine museum in the country, in the town of Dolores Hidalgo, the birthplace of Mexico’s independence movement. The first bodega in this area was Cuna de Tierra, and its history dates back to the 1990s. Now one of the country’s most famous vineyards, Cuna de Tierra started as a project among friends and the vineyard’s architecture has won it several international prizes.

Their level of production is still considered boutique and they have won more than 80 international prizes for their wine. The vineyard offers a restaurant, guided tours of the vineyard, cooking classes, and a make-your-own-wine mixing class. Among all their varietals the nebbiolo stands out, though there is an ample portfolio of blended and single varietal wines that are bold, expressive, and highly recommendable. 

San Miguel de Allende

Moving on down the route, San Miguel de Allende is considered to have some of the highest quality of life around the globe. The first name on your list of vineyards here should be Viñedo San Miguel, which has excellent national wines as well as Italian imports from the owner’s Tuscan estates.

Their brand also includes an exclusive line of clothing and leather goods. An adjoining real estate development also offers investors the chance to make their own wine and own a space in their exclusive residential area. As an organic vineyard, Dos Búhos has a smaller yearly production but offers top-quality wine including varietals like Sauvignon Blanc and Agliánico. Getting to the vineyard from San Miguel is easy by taxi, and they offer dining at their restaurant, tastings, and guided tours all year round. 

To further enhance the wine tourism experience, you should take the opportunity to visit the “Magic Town” of Comonfort, known for its production of mortars and pestles. Its cobblestone streets and Colonial mansions aren’t far from San Miguel and there are several more vineyards between these two towns for the thirsty traveller.

There are more than 100 vineyards in Queretaro and Guanajuato and so it is impossible to mention them all. For all of them, however, the quality and warmth of the service is outstanding. Most have their own websites and local tourism agencies can help you create an unforgettable itinerary. 

Diana Serratos studied at Universidad Nacional Autónoma de México (UNAM) and UNCUYO in Mendoza, Argentina, where she lived for over 15 years. She specializes in wines and beverages, teaching aspiring sommeliers at several universities. She conducts courses, tastings and specialized training.

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Campo Marte will transform into a bacchanalian paradise on Jan. 22 and 23 as over 80 wineries from 17 Mexican states descend upon the capital, each bringing a little taste of their terroir, toil and triumphs. For anyone who wants to understand how Mexico’s winemaking scene has evolved from Baja California’s well-trodden paths to the upstart regions of Jalisco, Puebla, and Hidalgo, Nación de Vinos is an informative and delicious dive into the history of wine.

The giants and the underdogs

The heavy hitters are all here — Monte Xanic, Santo Tomás, L.A. Cetto, Casa Madero, La Redonda and Freixenet. These names are the pillars of Mexican viticulture, vineyards that laid the groundwork for what’s become a booming industry.

Speaking of giants, Guanajuato is very much a staple of this year’s event. The El Bajío region has been quietly cultivating its own identity over the last few decades, and now it’s ready to roar. Cuna de Tierra, Viñedo San Miguel, and Tres Raíces are just a few of the players making waves. These vineyards have decided that making wine isn’t just about following tradition — it’s about redefining it.

A feast for the senses

For the first time, Banorte Nación de Vinos throws open its doors to the public, inviting everyone to taste the transformation. Tickets are 8,000 pesos, with high-end restaurants like La Docena, Quintonil, Rosetta, and Caracol de Mar serving dishes that are as much a part of the experience as the wines themselves. Each plate is designed to waltz with the grapes, enhancing the flavors and elevating the experience. It’s a masterclass in pairing, a testament to the idea that food and wine are inextricably linked.

In the Nation Space, producers and distributors will gather, not just to showcase their wares but to forge connections. Here, the lines between producer and consumer blur. Winemakers will rub elbows with sommeliers, chefs will chat with oenophiles and everyone will leave with a deeper understanding of what makes Mexican wine tick.

This year though, it’s the state of San Luis Potosí that takes center stage. Once an afterthought in the wine conversation, it’s now the guest of honor, and for good reason. Wineries like Pozo de Luna, Viñedo Bodega 1881, and Cava Quintanilla are leading a quiet revolution. These vineyards are producing wines that demand attention and tell stories of resilience and innovation.

The Best of San Luis Potosí

San Luis Potosí’s winemaking history dates back to the late 18th century. The Valley of San Francisco was where it all began, a fertile ground that’s now home to more than seven wineries.

A visit to San Luis Potosí’s wineries is a must for any serious wine lover. Cava Quintanilla, with its white and red varietals, is a standout, offering tours that are as educational as they are enjoyable. La Malaca, surrounded by walnut trees and lavender fields, is known for its sweet wines and artisanal products like organic soaps and marmalades.

Pozo de Luna is another highlight, crafting high-quality wines from Nebbiolo grapes, including a stunning rosé. Viñedos 1881, with its adobe walls and storied history, offers a blend of tradition and modern winemaking techniques.

San Luis Potosí’s capital is more than just a gateway to great wine. Its colonial architecture, Huichol art, and nearby natural wonders like waterfalls and Real de Catorce make it a destination worth exploring. The Rebozo Museum and local culinary delights, from enchiladas potosinas to fine dining, round out the experience, ensuring that a visit to this state is about more than just what’s in the glass.

So — will you take the dive into the incredible world of Mexican wine and gastronomy this week?

Diana Serratos studied at Universidad Nacional Autónoma de México (UNAM) and UNCUYO in Mendoza, Argentina, where she lived for over 15 years. She specializes in wines and beverages, teaching aspiring sommeliers at several universities. She conducts courses, tastings and specialized training.

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Even though it was originally called octli and during the colonial era its name became a pejorative, pulque remains what this sacred drink is known as colloquially.

It was sacred because during pre-Colombian times it was consumed by a small elite — mainly emperors, nobility and clergy. Because this drink was mildly intoxicating it was associated with states of ecstasy, connection to the mystic, and moments of contact with the divine.

Pulque was even offered as one of the tributes paid to the Mexica during their rule of the Valley of México. During the colonial era, its consumption was allowed and even flourished among the common people, though the Spanish found its taste not to their liking.

Pulque’s decline dates to the 20th century when, according to reports of the time, the growing Mexican beer companies started smear campaigns against this drink. It also didn’t help that pulque had a reputation for being sold in dodgy and rundown places. Its consumption was looked down upon for half of the last century and part of this one. Fortunately, pulque is coming back, assisted by international research on its properties.

Four types of magueys are used to make pulque: Salmiana, Mapisag, Manso or Noble, and Atrovirens, all of which are endemic to Mexico. Of these four Salmiana is the most well-known and most commonly used.

The pulque-making process has remained the same as it was centuries ago. In fact, it’s one of the oldest production processes on earth still in use today. It starts with the heart of the maguey plant, created by removing its innermost leaves. Early in the morning tlachiqueros scrape the heart, to extract a liquid called aguamiel or “honey water,” which can be drunk by everyone, even children.

The aguamiel is then stored in a cool area in wooden barrels called tinacales, as it begins the fermentation process catalyzed by naturally occurring bacteria in the air. The tlachiquero scrapes the heart of the plants twice a day, once in the morning and once in the afternoon. The plants require a lot of special care; without it, the pulque produced is much less quality than those looked after carefully.

No other substance is mixed in or added to the pulque barrels. New pulque is often mixed with some of an older fermented batch, similar to using a sourdough starter for bread. The process is very pure and very nutritional, something that has been researched by universities in various parts of the world. A team of researchers from the National Polytechnic Institute (IPN) discovered that pulque is an incredible probiotic and prebiotic, as it encourages healthy digestion, protects intestinal flora, and contains a high volume of vitamins. It’s also an excellent antioxidant. It was once considered a food, a fact confirmed by reports from today’s researchers and that has helped repair the damage of its bad reputation in the second part of the 20th century.

Once the fermentation has started, it’s up to the mayordomo, a pulque guardian, to carry out the process’s next step, which can take 2 to 5 days. Pulque is called different things at different moments during fermentation and depending on its alcohol percentage, which is never more than 5%. Once the mayordomo decides that the pulque is ready to be drunk, it’s kept in a cool place to maintain its characteristics, and as a “living” drink must be drunk within four or five days or it will start to go bad.

 The most common form of finishing pulque is creating curados, which means adding fruit juice or other natural flavorings to the original pulque. But this isn’t always the case: Sometimes pulque is made into a curado when it’s still fresh, adding to its nutritional properties. One of the most traditional flavors for curados is prickly pear, which some people believe was the first curado ever created and is considered to have a certain relationship with the color of blood. Another ancient and popular curado is tomato and chile pepper. Today you can also find nut-flavored, oat-flavored, passionfruit, guava, mango, and one that’s simply a “green” pulque. Curados can be made with seasonal fruit, making the drink more attractive. The drink is appealing to young palates for its low level of alcohol and its fruity flavor.

The most renowned region for pulque production is the Apan plains, an area that spans the states of Hidalgo, Tlaxcala, and part of México state. In the 1900s the pulque makers would arrive in the city with wineskins full, almost bursting. The wineskins were made of pigskin and the tlachiqueros brought them in so full that even the arms and legs of the pig skin filled up with pulque, which is where the popular saying, “Estás hasta las manitas” came from, which roughly translates to, “You’re drunk to the very tips of your fingers.” During that era, pulque was considered a commodity and was even something requested by Hitler, who believed it to be an elixir of eternal youth. Appropriately, it’s been something that time and bad publicity have been unable to vanquish.

Today things are different; pulque is served in bars called pulquerías. There are fewer than once existed for sure, but many have been around for years. Today they have somewhat of a different vibe. Pulquerías are clean, registered, open to both men and women and dispersed throughout the country — there are over 600 just in Mexico City! It’s truly a triumphal comeback for this drink. Today visitors can take specific tours that visit several pulquerías in one day, including some of the oldest in the country like Las Duelistas, El Ombligo del Maguey, or Spica. There are also pulquerías that have a broader cultural ambiance, with books, music and art. For example, Fuego Neo on the highway from Mexico City to Cuernavaca has electronic and rock music and delicious drinks, including modern and traditional preparations.

Pulquerías are scattered throughout the center of the country, each different and representative of this drink’s incredible influence on popular culture. There are four museums dedicated to pulque, one in Mexico City, one in Puebla ( often considered the best), one in Tlaxcala and one in Hidalgo. In each, you can find stories, photos and equipment used in the pulque-making process, including dried gourds and baskets. Museum visits are a great way to learn about this fine drink and many tourism routes are designed to let you visit producers throughout the Apan plains area. In almost every state in central Mexico, there are guided visits offered to pulquerías.

A little over a year ago, the Mexican Sommeliers Association started offering specialty training to become a “pulquelier,” directed by sommelier and pulquelier Eddy Wine, who is well-known in the pulque world and was formerly the director of the pulque museum in Mexico City. Wine created the guides for pulque tastings, elevating this drink to the next level of consumption and appreciation. Wine said that pulque must express the aromas of its plant and have a certain freshness and hints of fruit or flowers. It shouldn’t have a funny smell or be slimy and should be lightly viscous, but never the same consistency as drinking nopal cactus juice.

Without a doubt, pulque is experiencing a great moment in its history. It’s now offered at many cultural events and its production supports Mexican farming. Don’t miss the opportunity to try pulque on one of the farms where it’s made or in one of the many pulquerías in the country.

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